The road runs down a green valley between Salema and Burgau and simply ends at the sand — Boca do Rio, the ‘mouth of the river’, where a seasonal stream meets the sea and almost nothing has been built in two thousand years. That’s not a figure of speech: the low walls behind the beach are the remains of a Roman fish-salting settlement, and out in the bay lies the wreck of the Océan, a French warship lost after the Battle of Lagos in 1759 and now one of the Algarve’s known dive sites.
The beach itself is the honest kind: darker, coarser sand than the postcard coves further east, pebbles at the back, a wild wetland valley behind, and usually only a scatter of people on it. When southwesterly swell runs, waves roll straight in; on calm days it’s a quiet, undeveloped swim with history on three sides.
When to go: calm days for swimming, low light for photographs — the valley and headlands do their best work early and late. It’s exposed enough that a windy day is a walking day, not a towel day.
Who it’s for: divers and history-minded visitors — ruins behind, wreck in front; anyone escaping the developed coast without a long drive; walkers, since the clifftop path links it to Salema and Burgau.