Everyone arrives at Praia de Benagil looking for the cave, so let’s separate the two: the great domed sea cave has its own listing — this is the beach, and it has its own case to make. Benagil is still recognisably a fishing village’s beach, a wedge of sand pinched between ochre cliffs with brightly painted boats hauled up on it, a working slipway, and the constant summer traffic of kayaks and paddleboards pushing off toward the cave mouth a short paddle east.
That traffic defines the place in season. This is a staging post as much as a beach — half the people on the sand are queueing, launching or landing — and the compact cove absorbs it all with variable grace. Come for the atmosphere and the swimming off the quieter side of the sand, not for solitude.
When to go: early morning is the village version — boats, still water, cliffs catching first light and the sand nearly empty. By mid-morning in summer the launch traffic takes over. Out of season the beach returns to being what it always was: a small, handsome cove below a quiet village.
Who it’s for: cave-bound paddlers, obviously; but also anyone who wants to watch a working Algarve beach at its busiest and most cheerful — and photographers, early, when the boats and the light are the whole picture.